My Travels to Kampong Ayer, Brunei

About 10% of Brunei’s entire population lives in Kampong Ayer, known as the ‘Water Village’ in English. (Note that the Malaysian spelling drops the double o, making it Kampong Ayer). Having begun its existence 1,300 years ago, it’s a very special place, where all of the buildings hover over the Brunei River, held up by stilts. It’s a spectacular sight and, if you’re spending any time in Brunei – be it just a quick stay at a Brunei hotel or a longer holiday – a day trip should definitely be on the itinerary. Depending on what kind of experience you prefer, you can travel on your own or opt for a guided tour.

Strictly speaking, the ‘Water Village’ is not just one village, but a group 42 separate villages, joined together by more than 29,140 metres of foot bridges. In excess of 4,200 structures make up the area, including not only residences, but also shops, restaurants, educational institutions, places of worship and even a hospital. Even though, from a long way away, it looks a bit like an impoverished socio-economic area, it’s actually pretty impressive in terms of 21st century facilities. It might not be as quaint as Venice, but you’ll certainly find all the mod cons, including electricity, plumbing, air con, television and access to the internet. 30,000 people live in Kampong Ayer altogether, making it the biggest water village on the planet.

How to get there

To get to Kampong Ayer from Brunei, you’ll need to catch a water taxi. They depart every day from the middle of town (from Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah to be precise). If you’re travelling independently, you won’t be able to see inside people’s homes, but you will be able to visit the Kampong Ayer Cultural Centre, a US$2.4 million facility dedicated to the history and importance of the area, built especially for curious visitors. Expect to spend at least 30 minutes there, if not much longer. There are both enlightening, educational displays and an excellent viewing platform providing some interesting perspectives.

Travelling on an organised tour

Another way of experiencing Kampong Ayer is by taking an organised tour. For fiercely independent travellers, this isn’t always especially appealing, but, in this particular case, it’s actually a great idea, as it’s the only way of seeing inside houses. Many tour operators have friends and associates in the village, so they’re usually able to organise home visits without too much trouble. Some might even include a bite to eat with some locals. That said, don’t expect tours to be super cheap. Prices have responded to increasing demand, so don’t be surprised to pay US$25 or so per hour.

 

What you need to know

First and foremost, it’s important to be respectful of those who call Kampong Ayer home. As you can imagine, having hordes of tourists passing your house every day and finding it an utter novelty isn’t everyone’s idea of fun, so do try to be discreet when looking around. Remember, too, that Islam is Brunei’s official religion, so all people – visitors included – are expected to dress modestly. That means keeping flesh covered as much as possible.

Also, whenever you’re day tripping in Brunei, you should be prepared for rain. It won’t necessarily pour every day or anything like that, but you can certainly expect scattered showers. So pack a rain coat and/or umbrella. Thankfully, temperatures are usually rather warm, varying between 22 degrees Celsius and 32 degrees, reaching their peak between May and August and cooling down between January and March.